People in the room were up early! This is Camino Francés! So, there is a morning rush in the darkness. Got me up too. Had some breakfast in a bar that I had seen the night before. Then out and back the way to Obanos I had walked the day before. Continued through some two or three more villages. Noted that they had their own albergues. Met lots and lots of people with backpacks. Should I estimate I’d say 500 – 600 probably. Remarkable!
Had my morning coffee in Uterga. Had to be my real breakfast this day. You had a good view of the surroundings since the way usually wen high on the hills. And you saw several villages/citys in the countryside around you. Maybe be they were suburbs to Pamplona?! It’s not far. In the villages you pass you also note that Camino Francés gives business opportunities. You’ll find albergues, bars and various types of services, quite unlike the situation on Camino Aragones. It’s almost like the camino here is a “motorway” in several aspects, quality, service etc.
It was a cold morning, so I had to wear double sweaters not to freeze. Later I did reach the uphill towards Alto de Perdon. It was – as earlier – filled with rounded stones so you must walk with some care. And it’s somewhat of an art to walk both up and down. With a lot of practice from many bad and stony tracks it was no problem for me. But for a beginner…? It improved slightly towards the top of the hill.
Well, at the top near the famous silhouettes I they had introduced a service van where you could buy refreshments just like at the top of the hill from St-Jean! That’s new! A lot of people taking photos. One of them also helped me to take the necessary photo of me in front of the metal pilgrims. Sent a message to Bosse J, my old friend, who is using a photo of these rusty pilgrims as his signature.
The downhill was a bit easier. Beautiful view towards Pamplona and the Pyrenees up north. Still a lot of people walking south. Passed the village of Zariquiegui where the seemed to have good service. However, I did not stop but continued towards Cizur Menor, that I also passed. Saw the albergue that is used much. Then the motorway, the university area etc. The city started to rise around me. Finally, the big park around the Ciudadela (Citadelle). Now I left the markings in the sidewalks that had guided me through the city so far. Then – with some difficulty – I located my old hotel Yoldi that I use one and a half year ago. The lady behind the counter even found my name in the database. Shower, wash and search for timetables of the bus to Biarritz on my PC.
A tour around the city to eat and pay my respect to Ernest Hemingway at the city bullring and the streets used for the famous bull run at San Fermin. But the bar with his name had been closed. I even went up to the city gate towards the Magdalena bridge where pilgrims enter the city. Tour completed!
At the underground bus station, I bought a ticket to Biarritz the day after. I noted that the bus center seemed to be in some decay since several shops seemed to be in a closing process. I wonder why.
Una madruga cuando “todos” en el albergue comenzaba muy temprano. ¡Si este es el Camino Frances! Anduve a un bar que había visto la noche pasado y después andaba atrás. Pasé Obanos y unos pueblos más. Después pasé Alto de Perdón con sus siluetas de peregrinos y con todas estas piedras difíciles cuando subí la cuesta. Y – encontré muchas, muchas gentes. Quizá 500…600 personas. ¡Si este es el Camino Frances! Cizur Menor y Pamplona donde usaba el mismo hotel que hace dos años cuando atravesé Francia. Visité la estación de autobús y la plaza de toros con la estatua de Hemingway.
Peregrino 